Basic rules

The main difficulty is not how to hide, but how to do it beautifully, on a budget and leave direct access for subsequent maintenance of pipes. Careless walling up can lead to a serious accident and leak, and the finishing will have to be dismantled.

Consider the main points to avoid unpleasant consequences:

  1. Water pipes and sewerage can be tightly sewn up only if there are no or a minimum number of high-quality connections. In this case, the entire pipeline must be made of the same material (plastic pipes – plastic connections).
  2. The design must provide a door (inspection hatch) in the places of meters, filters, main taps at the entrance to the apartment – this way you will always have quick access to communications and devices.
  3. If the task is not just to close, but to wall up the pipes in the wall – use an additional foam casing. It protects cold water pipes from condensation, and allows hot water pipes to expand and contract freely.
  4. It is essential to distribute cold and hot water pipes into different grooves.
  5. Never groove the following surfaces in the bathroom: load-bearing walls and ventilation boxes, as well as floor slabs.
  6. Minimize the number of connections to minimize the likelihood of leaks.

rough bathroom renovation

The photo shows an example of rough finishing of a bathroom

Not all water supply elements can be hidden in grooves or hidden behind a blind partition. It is strictly forbidden to close:

  • Connections with T- or X-shaped fittings (high risk of leakage).
  • Threaded connections (may leak at any time).
  • Meters and other devices (requires monitoring).

revision hatch in the tile

The photo shows an example of a hatch in a tiled wall

The most effective methods of disguise

There are several ways to close pipes in the bathroom, but I will tell you about the most popular and reliable options.

See also how to seal the joint between the bathtub and the wall.

Sew up in a plasterboard box

The lining of pipes in the bathroom is done pointwise or a whole false wall is erected: it all depends on the initial location of the utilities in the bathroom. The false wall takes up a decent portion of the usable area, which can be a fundamental issue in a small bathroom. But at the same time, unsightly but functional risers, meters, filters, and the toilet system are hidden behind it. And only decorative furniture and plumbing remain outside.

The step-by-step process for the first and second options is generally similar, the differences will only be in the dimensions:

  1. Mount a frame from metal or wooden profiles, maintaining 90C angles.
  2. Cut the drywall into sheets of the required size, screw to the frame with special screws.
  3. Prime and putty the joints through the mesh.
  4. Refine with the selected finishing material (tiles, paint, mosaic, panels, plaster).

Only moisture-resistant drywall (GKLV) will be suitable for the bathroom, but it is better to use gypsum fiber board (GVLV). At the same time, although the materials are resistant to moisture, they should not be used directly in showers.

box with roller shutter in the bathroom box for riser

Important! Do not forget to install a window through which you can check the condition of the pipes and record meter readings.

Cover with a box made of PVC panels

Plastic panels are an inexpensive and easy-to-use material. You should not give up this method of masking, even if more expensive tiles or porcelain tiles are chosen for the main finishing.

You can make a decorative box from an ordinary white plastic panel, which will help to reliably hide the pipes in the bathroom without spoiling the intended design. This option is only suitable if the plumbing communications are combined.

You will need the following materials and tools:

  • a panel of a suitable size;
  • 2 starting profiles in color;
  • a stationery knife;
  • sanitary sealant (not afraid of water, suitable for non-porous surfaces).

plastic box in the bathroom

Let’s start the installation:

  1. Measure the length of the future box and make an approximate diagram on paper (take into account the dimensions of the pipe on different sides).
  2. Make markings on the wall so that it is even glue the profiles.
  3. Cut the starting profiles according to the dimensions of the box.
  4. Apply silicone sealant to the end of the profile, glue it to the wall and floor in the right place.
  5. Wait until it dries completely – the profiles should hold securely on the surface.
  6. Try on the plastic panel, cut to size.
  7. In the place where the corner is needed, remove the sealing ribs from the inside – this will allow you to bend the plastic without unnecessary joints.
  8. Tuck the edges of the panel into the profiles – done!

The advantages of this method are simplicity, speed and the ability to quickly remove if urgent repairs are needed. Disadvantages may appear when creating more complex corner structures – you can not find profiles for all joints on sale, so some seams may remain open.

Of course, this is not the only way to cladding with plastic. If the pipes are located under the bathtub, you can build a screen from plastic plates, and in the place of the riser – a false wall, simply fixing them to metal profiles instead of plasterboard.

Hide behind blinds or roller shutters

In order not to come up with complex designs and not to bother with installing hatches, you can turn to a ready-made solution: plumbing blinds. In fact, they are roller shutters that, when closed, help to hide pipes in the toilet and in the bathroom, and when open, replace the hatch, allowing you to check the condition of the engineering systems.

The main advantage of roller shutters is their almost complete opening: the opening can be at least along the entire height of the vertical pipes – from floor to ceiling. Therefore, blinds are often chosen to hide sewer pipes. There are also disadvantages – a limited (albeit large) choice of colors, and the appearance itself will not suit every bathroom.

blinds in the bathroom

Before buying, you need to decide what type of design will suit you:

  • mechanical (open with a rope structure, like regular blinds);
  • automatic (raises and lowers with a simple press of a button).

To make the right choice, remember the rule: the maximum width of a mechanical model is 50-55 cm. Anything wider should be automatic.

The second important question is how it will be attached. It is most convenient if there is a niche in the bathroom, along the edges of which profiles are simply fixed, and on them flush with the wall – roller shutters of the required width. If there is no niche, you will still have to build a frame – on one side it will be closed with blinds, on the other – finishing (ceramic tiles, panels).

When installing, be extremely careful: both guides must be strictly level. Even the slightest deviation will cause the mechanism to jam.

Important! Mechanical roller shutters are installed assembled.

roller shutters for the bathroom

In the photo, the pipes are located in a box, and access to them is provided by an inspection hatch with blinds

Mount in the wall

If a major renovation has begun in the bathroom, you can resort to the most radical method: close the pipes in the wall. This is a labor-intensive, noisy and very dirty process, but as a result you will get a beautiful solid surface without visible defects.

To carry out the work, you will need special equipment (a wall chaser, grinder or hammer drill). Before chasing, make sure that it is technically possible to lay internal paths of the required depth (building codes prohibit violating the integrity of brick and thin-walled partitions – there is a high risk of violating the integrity of the structure).

Important! At the beginning of the article, we listed all the parts that are prohibited from being walled up — return to the list and study it carefully to avoid problems in the future.

pipes in the wall

The step-by-step instructions come down to the following steps:

  1. Draw a plan for the future pipe layout on paper and transfer it to the wall. Draw the lines strictly according to the level.
  2. Make grooves of the required size along all the drawn lines.
  3. Prime the recesses, you can additionally protect them with a waterproofing coating.
  4. Proceed to install the pipes.
  5. Fix the laid communications with cement.
  6. Leave a window for access to important units and meters. This will allow you not to break everything if a leak occurs. There are many options for inspection hatches, study our article.

Important! If you doubt your abilities, entrust the work to a proven construction team. They will replace the pipes with new ones and make high-quality internal lining.

Masking with furniture

The easiest way to hide unnecessary communications is to play with furniture. For example, a cabinet under the sink. Firstly, you won’t have to build anything. Secondly, bathroom storage cabinets are necessary in any case – why not give them an additional function.

Unfortunately, of all the bathroom furniture options, only “washstands” provide for the location of the corrugation. In purchased cabinets and shelves, you will have to take care of cutting the necessary holes yourself. But it is best not to buy in a store, but to order built-in bathroom furniture according to individual dimensions. Or make it yourself.

In a narrow space, for example, between two walls, you can hang several shelves using special fasteners. And then close it from the outside with doors on regular piano or other furniture hinges.

If the riser is located in the corner, build a corner cabinet – it will not take up much space, but will be able to accommodate most of the things you need to store.

hide pipes in a cabinet

The photo shows a cabinet hiding the toilet drain system and the sink siphon

Decorative options

In fact, it is not necessary to hide the communications – it is enough to use one of the original decorating techniques, due to which the pipes will simply look better and easily fit into a modern interior.

The simplest option is to paint the pipes. It is inexpensive and looks impressive. Works on the principle of “what can’t be removed should be emphasized.” Matte black looks great, but you can choose any shade: from neutral white or gray to eccentric yellow, red, blue. The boldest can combine two or three colors. At the same time, the treated part can either blend in with the wall or deliberately stand out against its background.

Important! The paint must be highly resistant to changes in humidity and temperature. To improve adhesion, use a suitable primer.

If a single tone seems boring, dilute it with decoupage or stickers: the main thing is that the technique matches the chosen style. To protect the decor, cover with heat-resistant varnish.

People with artistic talent can paint the pipeline to look like bamboo, birch or another object that fits the shape.

copper pipes in the interior

The photo shows copper pipes in the interior

black pipes in the bathroom toilet with a pipe

Another option from the “highlight, can’t remove” series is integration. This number works best in a loft style, and the pipes should be chrome, copper or black. They will simultaneously serve a decorative and functional purpose.

In some styles (Scandinavian, Provence, marine), jute wrapping will be appropriate. Take a rope of a suitable diameter and wind it along the entire visible part of the pipe, including the fasteners.

copper pipes in the bathroom wrap the pipe with rope rope on the pipe

But for the laziest, there is textile! Hang a curtain rod and thick drapes – keep them closed and no one will guess what is hiding behind the beautiful facade. If the communications are only in the lower part, you can install shelves for storage on top.

pipe in the color of the wall in the bathroom matte black pipes in the toilet

And finally, we remind you once again: when working with pipes, take all precautions and always leave access to the water supply and sewerage.

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