Methods of mounting PVC panels on walls and ceilings.

What materials and tools will be needed?

Installation of plastic panels begins long before construction work. First of all, you need to purchase all the materials:

• The PVC panels themselves. To ensure that all elements match each other in color, choose packages from the same batch. Plastic panels come in the form of lamellas (25-30 cm wide, 2.5-3 m long), slabs or sheets, and also imitating clapboard (about 10 centimeters wide).

Colors, patterns and shapes are selected to match the interior. They also differ in the number of stiffening ribs – models with a minimum margin of safety and small thickness are suitable as plastic panels for the ceiling. For wall cladding, a more rigid plastic is required.

• Additional elements. Such finishing materials as internal and external corners, plugs, ceiling plinths and docking profiles allow you to install plastic panels more accurately and achieve the most neat result.
• Bars. If you choose a frame fastening method, you will need small-section wooden bars (20-30 mm) or a metal profile.
• Mounting strips + clamps or clips. The modern version of installing PVC panels is more expensive than the usual one on a bar or glue, but it is more practical. Assembling the structure with a complete factory installation kit is a matter of a few hours of work.

Important! Points 3 and 4 are optional and depend on the method of fastening the plastic trim.

Tools are also needed to install plastic panels:

• A plumb line or a building level. A laser level, which is used by professionals, is more convenient and accurate than a bubble level.
• A hacksaw for metal, wood, or a sharp stationery knife. Depending on what is more convenient for cutting PVC panels.
• Scissors. Convenient for trimming corners, plugs.
• Tape measure and ruler.
• Pencil or marker.
• Step ladder (if necessary).

Depending on the chosen technology by which you plan to attach the plastic panels, you will need:

• Jigsaw or saw.
• Perforator (impact drill), hammer and dowels.
• Fasteners (clamps, self-tapping screws with a screwdriver, staples + stapler) when assembling panels on the sheathing.
• A gun for applying sealant or glue, silicone sealant itself or liquid nails, if the plastic panels are mounted using glue.

Preparing the base

A carefully prepared surface is the key to a high-quality result and long service life wall or ceiling finishing. Some people think that if the slats are installed on a frame, there is no need to remove the old finishing or prepare the walls in any way. But this is not true! Especially if the PVC panels are to be placed in the bathroom or kitchen.

Important! Whatever method you use to fix the panels, do not skip the preparatory stage.

1. Dismantling the old covering. Any wallpaper or peeling paint must be removed.
2. Cleaning. Concrete, tiles or strong paint must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust.
3. Primer. To protect surfaces from mold, apply a fungicidal primer around the entire perimeter with a roller or brush.

Advice! If you choose the adhesive method of installation on a painted wall, make small notches all over the surface for better adhesion of the silicone to the wall.

Installation methods

Everyone installs plastic panels differently. The options can be divided into 3 main groups:

Frame

Fastening to a steel or wooden frame has a number of advantages:

• does not require a perfectly flat base,
• allows you to build even corners (important for installing furniture or plumbing),
• leaves free space for communications.

The disadvantages include a decrease in the area of the room (critical in small bathrooms or toilets), the possibility of mold due to poor air circulation, additional time and money spent on assembling the frame. The plastic panels themselves are attached to the lathing using screws, staples or clamps.

Glue

Using liquid nails or sealant, PVC panels are glued to any base – be it plaster, paint or tiles. But for the result to be successful, the walls must be as even as possible – otherwise the finishing will simply go around the unevenness and emphasize it even more.

Experts do not recommend this method, citing its unreliability, but everyone who has tried the method from personal experience is ready to argue – the slats are glued literally tightly and hold up perfectly even without making holes.

Mounting strip

The procedure is similar to assembling the frame, only simpler:

1. 2-4 special strips are fixed perpendicular to the wall (horizontally);
2. in the brackets are inserted into the grooves, to which the first panel is attached;
3. then it remains to cut the PVC panels to the desired size and place them next to each other, securing them with brackets from time to time.

How to attach panels to walls?

To carry out the fastening work yourself, you must strictly follow the procedure described in the instructions.

Important! Before installing the panels, give them time to adapt to the temperature and humidity of the room that you plan to finish. To do this, leave the material in the room for 12-48 hours – the greater the difference between the storage and operating temperatures, the more time it will take.

Step-by-step instructions

After careful preparation of the walls and a complete set of materials and tools, we begin the installation work itself. First, let’s look at the adhesive method of finishing with PVC panels, perhaps the fastest installation method.

Advice! Plastic is well glued with liquid nails, but for a wet area (for example, a bathroom), it is better to take a transparent sealant.

• Marking. Take a level (preferably a laser), a pencil and a ruler. Mark a straight horizontal or vertical line to which the edge will be applied in the future.
• Starting point. Measure the height from the floor to the ceiling, cut the corners of the desired length and apply glue. Press firmly, install on both sides of the first wall, let it set. To hide the edges near window and door openings, use U-shaped plugs instead of corners.
• Finishing. Transfer the wall size to the first PVC panel, cut it. Apply a few dots of glue, insert it into place, align it along the drawn line or level. The remaining slats are attached in the same way – check the level from time to time and align the PVC panel.

Important! If the first element does not rest on the floor, but starts from the middle of the wall – let it dry well before installing the rest. Haste can lead to serious errors and violation of geometry.

The top and bottom of the structure are covered with starting profiles for PVC panels or special skirting boards.

Advice! If the planks have a protective film, do not remove it until the finishing work is completed: it will keep the surface intact and safe, help avoid scratches, and simplify further maintenance.

Video for beginners

Decided to try the frame method? Watch the step-by-step guide to installing PVC slats on wooden sheathing without using corners:

An excellent modern method of fastening to plastic guides:

Features of ceiling mounting

For perpendicular fastening, choose the frame method. The communications for lighting and ventilation will be hidden inside the box, which will allow achieving the maximum clean effect from the outside.

Step-by-step instructions

There are practically no significant differences between the finishing of the walls and ceiling:

1. Marking. Mark a clear line along the contour of the room at one level. Use an accurate device, rather than measuring an equal distance from the ceiling – the latter may be crooked.
2. Assembling the frame. Start by installing the contour strips (it is better to choose a metal profile for gypsum board – a bubble level on a magnet is conveniently attached to it), then insert the crossbars, fixing them on the sides to the guides and the ceiling.
3. Installing PVC. Starting from one corner, moving across the guides, attach the panels to the profile using self-tapping screws. The edges can be covered with plugs immediately or the baseboard can be installed after finishing the work on the ceiling.

Video for beginners

Watch the step-by-step finishing of the ceiling with small secrets from the master in the video instructions:

Although the level of complexity of working with PVC is minimal, all manipulations also require skill and a “trained hand”. Always take material with a reserve in order to have a free lamella to replace the damaged one.